Pieces supplied by ERA:
||Nut plate for
||Upper pivot tube
for 1 ¼? hole
- If installed, remove the old rear suspension and trailing
- Remove the brake line that goes from the master cylinder
to the chassis rail. It will be reused.
- Remove the old trailing arm mounts on both sides.
Grind the main chassis rails smooth.
- Remove the old brake line bracket.
Drill the crossmember in front of the rear suspension as
the ½" holes are drilled, use a nut plate manually
held in place to locate the two 9/64? holes. Drill through both
the nut plate and the crossmember.
- One side at a time, fish a piece of light welding wire in
through the top ½" hole and out the 1 ¼" hole. Hook the wire
through the nut plate from the flat (not the nut) side.
- Carefully feed the nut plate through the large hole,
keeping slight tension on the wire. When the plate gets into
position, screw a ½-13 bolt through the chassis hole into the nut
plate. ?Tweek? the nut plate so that the top hole lines up and
snug the bottom bolt.
- Put a bolt into the top hole. Tighten both the top
and bottom bolts.
- Secure the plates with two ½? blind rivets.
|Weld on the new trailing arm mounts as
on the new brake line bracket as indicated.
|Upper trailing arm tube
Locate the upper trailing arm tube on the frame kickup.
Trim the fiberglass around the area.
Drill a ¾" hole through both sides of the frame,
perpendicular to the face of the rail.
paint around the new holes.
Insert the tube through the chassis rail so that the
outside edge sits 1/8" above the chassis surface. The smooth end
(internally) of the tube goes away from the car?s centerline, the threads are toward the centerline.
MIG weld around the outer edge of the tube on
both ends. If there is any weld bead above the tube end on the
outside of the chassis rail, grind it flush with the tube end.