Adjusting the balance bar
Because of the caliper piston size and balance, the front brakes require about twice as much fluid volume as the rear.
At rest, the outside link must be adjusted longer than the inside one - roughly plus 3/8". This is to allow as much fluid to the front brakes as possible before the balance bar bottoms out in the housing (in the reversed angle that is shown at the right).
Note that the early cars used a different configuration, with a pressed-in bearing and short spacers (no shims). The longer spacer was used on the front brake master side.
Modifying the brake balance
Generally, the stock setup will work with stock (recommended) pads. The brakes are not boosted, so you may be experiencing manual-brake culture shock. You need more leg in the ERA than your "real" car. Sometimes, that takes some time to aclimate to. Allow yourself a bit more following room for the first few miles. (And don't tailgait, period. It's neither courteous or safe.)
If you are using a non-standard pad or have an unusual setup, a change in configuration might be required. Changes might include:
Flushing the system
The most compatible fluids are Castrol LMA and ATE type 400. Both are DOT 3 or 4. Don't use DOT 5 - it's silicone-based and may create problems with seals. You will need about a pint of fluid total.
Since the front and rear brakes are separate systems, it doesn't matter which you do first. While you can use a vacuum bleeder, it's not necessary.
I would do the flush this way:
Used up to chassis #175, these cylinders are cast iron rather than aluminum of the Tilton units.
(2) VW 113 611 021C
|The VW master cylinder must be modified as follows:
Create a way to bypass the internal residual pressure valve by:
Brake drag is usually a result of a blocked return port in the master cylinder. This can be caused by serveral things: