Clutch Troubleshooting (external slave cylinder)

1. When assembling the bellhousing to the engine, always check the bellhousing concentricity as described here.
2. Sometimes, when the car is stored in a humid environment for an extended period,  the clutch driven disk sticks to the flywheel or pressure plate.
3. Check the throw at the bell housing throwout arm.  It should be a minimum of 3/4" with full foot pedal travel. (See the manual.) 
4. If it is less, does the arm significantly lag the motion of the pedal?  That would indicate air in the system.  Bleed at the slave cylinder with the front of the car higher than the rear.  Also make sure that the cylinder is mounted with the bleeder at the highest point.
5. If the arm travel is adequate, there's probably a problem with the clutch components or installation.

1. Are you losing fluid?  Pull the slave cylinder boot back to check whether the slave is leaking.  Replace or rebuild if necessary.
2. If you are not losing fluid and the feel at the pedal is low or erratic, the master cylinder is defective.  Replace or rebuild.
3. If the clutch face has disintegrated, clutch will feel spongy or super stiff.

With Concentric Slave Cylinder

1. See points 1, 2, and 5 above.
2. Does it seem that there is no (or minimal) resistance for the first couple of inches of pedal travel? You probably still have air in the system. See the manual for clutch bleeding. Sometimes raising the front of the car is necessary to get the air out of the master cylinder.
3. Lengthen the rod going from the pedal arm to the master cylinder. If it works to fix the problem, but moves the pedal face uncomfortably close, see below.
4. If the above actions still don't help, you may need a bigger master cylinder. Normally we supply a 3/4" bore, but a 7/8" is also available.

1. See above.
2. Check for fluid leaking from the bottom of the bell housing. That usually iindicates a leaking concentric bearing. It must be replaced.